{"id":41,"date":"2013-01-26T02:10:35","date_gmt":"2013-01-26T02:10:35","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.eastsidetreeworks.com\/blog\/?p=41"},"modified":"2026-04-06T17:40:05","modified_gmt":"2026-04-06T17:40:05","slug":"anatomy-of-pruning","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.eastsidetreeworks.com\/blog\/anatomy-of-pruning\/","title":{"rendered":"The Anatomy of Pruning"},"content":{"rendered":"

The anatomy of pruning covers many areas. If you are like me, it’s not enough to just know\u00a0how to prune\u00a0correctly<\/a> – I need to know why<\/i> this pruning is correct.<\/p>\n

This article addresses the \u201cwhy\u2019s\u201d of proper tree pruning in three main points: Where <\/i>to make the cut, when<\/i> to make the cut, and why<\/i> it\u2019s important not to cut too much.<\/p>\n

Why do I cut at the branch collar?<\/b><\/h3>\n

In each successive year, a tree divides and expands its cells gaining length at the shoot and root tips.\u00a0 With this cellular gain, the entire tree expands along its circumference.<\/p>\n

In the simplified picture below (1) you see there is a layering of conical-structures stacked one inside another.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0This layering of cones becomes interesting at the branch-to-trunk union, as they grow successively one over the other (as if woven together).<\/p>\n

It is this weaving that\u00a0creates the\u00a0branch collar<\/i><\/a>. Inside the branch collar is a decay-resistant inverted cone that is called the\u00a0branch core<\/i>.\u00a0 This is why it is well advised to cut to, but not\u00a0into<\/i>\u00a0the branch collar.<\/p>\n

Cutting into the branch collar opens up the wood of the trunk (or parent stem) to decay, and negates the protective barriers that the tree has established.<\/p>\n

\"growthrings.jpeg\"\"branchcrosscut.jpeg\"<\/p>\n

This is also why a crown reduction should be done very sparingly, as the cuts that are made are called drop-crotch cuts.\u00a0 This cut removes the parent stem just above a branch, and leaves no branch collar and no branch core\u2026 therefore no protective barrier.<\/p>\n

When to make the cut<\/b><\/h3>\n

One of the most common questions I am asked is what time of year should I prune my trees<\/i>. I usually tell a client that pruning anytime during the year is possible – as we adjust our pruning techniques for each season.\u00a0 Though with most careful pruning procedures, there are always exceptions.<\/p>\n

When should you prune?<\/h3>\n

The best time to prune a tree is late in the dormant season (late winter).\u00a0 \u00a0They are expending very little energy and have very little time for infectious diseases to move into the pruning wounds before the tree can begin growing over the cut.<\/p>\n

The second best time to prune is mid-to-late summer, before the leaves start to turn.\u00a0 This is a good time to prune because the tree is no longer growing and has not started to withdraw the energy from the leaves to store it for spring.<\/p>\n

The third option for pruning would be in autumn. Pruning in the autumn months interrupts or removes the available energy that would otherwise be put away for the spring flush. \u00a0During this time, pruning must be done to a lighter degree.<\/p>\n

In spring and during flowering periods of any season, the tree is expending a great deal of energy toward cell expansion while receiving very little energy from photosynthesis. During this time, the tree is giving growth it\u2019s all and has little energy to divert towards defense.<\/p>\n

It is still okay to prune during this time of year (when tree is too busy to be bothered), but the amount of living branches removed needs to be adjusted to account for the trees physical requirements.<\/p>\n

Removing deadwood<\/h3>\n

Removing deadwood is a good thing to do at anytime of the year. It does not interrupt any of the trees natural processes and ensures energy is being used in the most efficient manner.<\/p>\n

Deadwood removal on a tree also minimizes potential damage. It allows the branches being removed to be cut clean to the branch collar (as opposed to breaking-out during wind or other environmental effects).<\/p>\n

Don’t prune too much<\/b><\/h3>\n

It is important not to over-prune at any time during the year.\u00a0 Over pruning disrupts the balance of two phytohormones:\u00a0 Auxin<\/a> (produced in the shoots) and Cytokinin<\/a> (produced in the roots).<\/p>\n

When the supply of Auxin is reduced to a level that is too low by over pruning, there is an abundance of Cytokinin. Cytokinin is the hormone that is in part responsible for shoot development.<\/p>\n

This is the cause of unhealthy and ugly sucker growth<\/a> (or \u201cwater sprouts\u201d) due to over pruning. \u00a0In a sense, it is similar to humans with chemical imbalances\u2026 the trees go a little crazy.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Anatomy of pruning broken down to the 3 “why’s” of proper pruning: where, when & why to make the cut.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-41","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-arboriculture"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nThe Anatomy of Pruning | Eastside Tree Works<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"The anatomy of pruning not only covers proper pruning techniques but explains the why & how of pruning to better understand your trees.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.eastsidetreeworks.com\/blog\/anatomy-of-pruning\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" 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